Fear the Tyrannosaurus Zombie

From the monster-infested jungles of Chult comes the terrifying Tyrannosaurus Zombie! The new miniature is the latest in GF9’s D&D Collector’s Series based on the Tomb of Annihilation adventure.


Check out the spotlight of our newest D&D Collector’s Series model.


Tyrannosaurus Zombie

Batiri Goblin Totem Painting Guide


View the Batiri Goblin Totem spotlight here...
Check out the Batiri Goblin Totem assembly here...
You can find the Batiri Goblin Totem in our online store here...

Colour Reference

The Batiri are as colourful as they are characterful, bloodthirsty creatures. Decorated in wide jungle leaves, dinosaur bones and trinkets from unwary adventurers who dare explore the jungles of Chult. I find having the colour image close by is invaluable reference.

Colour Overview

With so many brands of paint available, I have picked the colour swatches I have used for each part instead. This guide shows the different colour tones, ink washes, and stages I have applied in order.

Batiri Goblin Totem Assembly Guide



View the Batiri Goblin Totem spotlight here...
Check out the Batiri Goblin Totem painting guide here...
You can find the Batiri Goblin Totem in our online store here...


With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue, and equipment to get you started.

Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.


I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.

Hobby Knife

This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.

Side Cutters and Tweezers

What you are looking for are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.

Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.

Super Glue

Super Glue is strong, fast-acting adhesive. Rapid Cure can be applied to the glued together parts to accelerate bonding. Always use Super Glue and Rapid Cure in a well ventilated area.

Cutting Mat

No one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.


Gap Filling with 'Green Stuff'

With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.


Pin Vice (hand operated miniature drill) and Wire


Drilling a small hole on both parts and inserting a reinforcing metal rod between them, is the strongest way to join two potentially weak parts together.




I generally use a 1mm drill bit with 0.9mm brass wire, so the fit is tight and the pin does not wobble around in the join, the brass rod is strong and at the same time easy to snip and file down. If you are stuck, a simple straightened out paper clip will work just as well.


Bone Saw



A fine gauge thin bladed saw.

Preparing the Miniature

As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and that they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.

Warped Parts



This is an example from another model, but it can happen to any thin parts like a spear shaft or sword blade. These parts have a tendency to warp in the moulding process as the vacuum is turned on. To fix this, apply gentle heat from a hair dryer along the whole piece and the resin will move back to its original shape, molecular memory is a cool thing.


Note - this Batiri Goblins miniature is pushing the limits of mould-making and due to its small size, is quite fragile. I recommend that you take your time removing the feeds and mould-lines. If you think a part might snap with standard clippers; change to a scalpel or even a bone saw as these tools do not flex the resin as they cut through.


All of these images are taken as I construct the Batiri Goblin Totem. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniature.

Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. 

For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the smaller feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.

There are a couple of hidden feeds within the model to help the flow of the resin which will need to be removed.

The horns on mask 1 are very thin, so I recommend using the Bone Saw to start, then trim the excess with a hobby knife.

Mask 4 has big ear stretchers sculpted into his lobes. These holes have been kept as thin as possible so you can drill the holes out if you want that extra level of detail. I have used a 1mm drill bit for this.


All the parts cleaned up ready for gluing into their sub-assemblies.

I have pinned the small rock under his foot for extra stability to the base. I have used a larger drill bit (1.5mm) to make a wider hole for the pin to fit in, giving me some flexibility on the foot placement when it comes to attaching it to the base.

Top Tip
If you are not sure of the exact position that the figure will be in and you need some flexibility with the lines aligning correctly, use 1mm wire as usual for the pin and drill a 1.5 / 2mm hole the other end. The joint will still be as strong and you will have some movement to get the final position you require.



Holding Stand

You are going to be holding this model for quite a while without touching it. Use anything that’s comfortable in your hand. I either use Blu-tac or double-sided tape to secure the miniature down.

The masks will need to be painted separately if you want the details behind them to show up. They will need a holding stand so they can be handled carefully without touching the models.

I have drilled holes lower than the main head fittings to avoid the recess filling up with glue, these holes will be hidden once they are attached to the stack.

Using some scrap wire as stands, each one bent 90 degrees and glued in place.

All of the parts ready for a coat of primer.

Tomb of Annihilation Map Set (72783)

 Tomb of Annihilation™

Gale Force Nine’s Official Dungeons & Dragons Tomb of Annihilation Map Set contains high-quality single-sided vinyl surfaces that are ideal for tracking the progress of your adventures during the campaign! These maps lay flat for ease of play and are sold in sturdy polycarbonate tubes for storage and transport.

The maps may be marked with WET-ERASE markers to temporarily record the paths your heroes travel, make notes about encounters and locations, or the modify landscape to suit your own campaign. They also look great on the wall of your game room! The Chult player map measures 24” x 18" and the Port, City, and Chult DM’s maps measure 16” x 12”. All of GF9's Maps are based on artwork provided by Wizards of the Coast. 

This campaign map set details the lands of Chult, the setting for Dungeons & Dragons campaigns in the Tomb of Annihilation adventure. Packed with details, these maps are a great way to chart your adventures across this dread and adventure-filled jungle. 

Gale Force Nine recommends the use of water-soluble marking pens, like those used with overhead projectors (wet-erase markers) with our game mats. Vinyl is a very porous material and any marks make by dry-erase or permanent markers will stain the mat.

Grab the Tomb of Annihilation Map Set at your local retailer or our Online Store today

Player's map of Chult
“Chult is a peninsula ringed with mountains and choked with rainforests. Enormous reptiles, savage goblins, and an army of undead prowl its jungles and ruins. Mapping the place has always been nigh impossible, and nothing is known about the region’s current geography beyond a few miles from the coast”
- Syndra Silvane, retired adventurer
 Tomb of Annihilation Mapw

Xanathar’s Guide to Everything™ Spellbook Cards

Waterdeep’s most infamous crime lord, the beholder Xanathar, hoards a vast trove of knowledge and secrets. Now some of those whisper come to life in the first major expansion for fifth edition Dungeons & Dragons, Xanathar's Guide to Everything™.

GF9 is supporting this new book release with a new Spellbook Card Deck featuring spells from the new book.


Learn everything here…

Spellbook Cards: Xanathar’s Guide to Everything™ (73922)

Expand your library of arcane knowledge with a new set of D&D Spellbook Cards featuring new spells found in D&D Xanathar’s Guide to Everything™.

This set contains 95 durable, laminated cards that expand options for spellcasters of all types. Now Spellcasters may choose from a wide variety of new spells, ranging from useful cantrips like the befuddling Infestation to the devastating Psychic Scream. Each card is marked with symbols denoting which classes can cast the spell. Xanathar's Guide to Everything™ and the Spellbook Cards includes all the spells previously released as part of the Elemental Evil storyline.

Order your Spellbook Card deck today!


Tomb of Annihilation: Dungeon Master's Screen (73708)

Tomb of Annihilation™:  Dungeon Master's Screen (73708)
The screen is the perfect companion for those Dungeon Masters running the Tomb of Annihilation™ adventure, or any trek through the jungles of Chult. The front features mysterious images of the jungle and its inhabitants, while the back displays extensive encounter and treasure tables as well as all the information a Dungeon Master might need to handle a jungle exploration. 
Order the DM's Screen here...
Tomb of Annihilation™:  Dungeon Master's Screen (73708)
Tomb of Annihilation™:  Dungeon Master's Screen (73708)

Tyrants Of The Underdark

Tyrants of the Underdark is a Competitive Deck-Building Strategy Game
Set in the Tumultuous Political Landscape Below the Forgotten Realms


Game Overview


During the course of the game, you’ll build and play your own deck of cards that represent the minions of your house and determine what actions you can take on your turn, such as recruiting new minions or deploying troops to the game map. You’ll continually refine your deck, adding new cards while removing others to make your deck more powerful.


Find out more here...


Resource Basics

The resources in the game are Power and Influence, which you may expend on your turn to take actions. Power and Influence aren’t tracked using game pieces; when you gain them during your turn, you must expend them on that turn or they are lost. You gain Power and Influence primarily from playing your cards.


Find out more here...

Interacting with the Map

Your Presence and ability to control the Underdark is represented by your forces: the troops and spies you’ve placed on the game map.

Most actions you take on the game map require you to have Presence where you take the action. You have Presence...
• At any site where you have a spy, a troop, or a troop in a space adjacent to that site.
• At any troop space on a route if that space is adjacent to a site or space where you have a troop.

Find out more here...


You may always take certain actions during step 1 of your turn by expending resources (see “Your Turn” on page 8). You might also take additional actions during your turn by playing cards.

Unboxing Video

Behind The Scenes - Town Backdrop (part 1)

The release of two Baldur’s Gate box sets, it gives me a great opportunity to show you the theory and evolution of creating a box cover backdrop.


Before I can start on the build, there are quite a few factors that need to be considered-

·         The floor texture must be flat, as gaps underneath the figure’s base look ugly.

·         The whole scene must be flexible and allow different positions for the miniatures to be photographed.

·         The backdrop can be converted to suit a specific set of miniatures.

·         Quick to build and paint.

·         The backdrop cannot overshadow the miniatures. After all, it’s the figures that are the main event on the front of the box.

For this city scene I constructed a section of stone flooring, using real miniature clay slabs and cast them in resin sheets, giving a very realistic texture. (There are similar model railway products available) I have made a stone slab floor and a smaller brick wall sheet. With these ‘building blocks’ ready to use, they are a quick way of constructing a textured medieval themed backdrop, this stone texture is cut up and used on multiple D&D releases.


Dock wall detail with stone pier. The wooden beam was added to hide the join where the resin brick sheets meet. The top of the wall was capped with large clay bricks.


5mm foam card is used for the basic construction. It’s easy to cut and glue together. I have added variety with height and depth without using a lot of the floor space, making the town look more organic and natural. As this is not for gaming purposes, all the doors and windows are in scale with the miniatures. To speed up the construction and painting later, I added balsa shutters to many of the windows and kept the window and door frames a simple design, using matchsticks.

The cladding begins with lolly sticks, balsa wood and cardboard roof tiles. When possible, I do prefer to work with the natural material it is supposed to represent e.g. balsa wood, as a natural texture is very hard to achieve, if using plasticard or another product. With so many roof tiles needed, thick cardboard was the obvious choice as it has a rough texture, soaks up the paint and can be cut with scissors, which is an important factor with so many to make and a difference between an hour and all day.

Notice how the right hand side is still plain foam board, I will finish off this section when I need another angle for a new box cover. The railings on the dock were a good idea, but had to be removed as they interfered with possible miniature positions and would be visible in every photograph.

With all the wooden cladding finished, all the bare foam board was rendered with Vallejo thick sandy paste, much like the real thing. This hides all blemishes and construction markings and dries in a couple of hours in a tough coat.


Finished detail image before the ground level of the buildings is filled with sand and painted.

The windows are plastic grid shaped sheets used for model boat building cargo hold covers, which are cut to size and glued behind each opening.



All rivets are cut from a length of plastic rod and then glued on. When cutting plastic rod, there is a tendency for your hand to not cut straight down, but at an angle, leaving unwanted angles. You can avoid this by rolling the scalpel blade around the circumference of the rod before cutting.

Painting buildings or something this large needs a slightly different approach and bigger brushes! I first carefully paint all the basecoats of each part and then use thin washes of brown and black oil paints. These provide a solid tint, and dry very smooth and quickly (1 hour), which allows you to make any corrections with turpentine.

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